Resin drips and splashes will be very difficult to remove, so it’s best to avoid the problem completely. However, if you do manage to get resin on a surface, a bit of isopropyl alcohol can usually remove it. You should also protect yourself by wearing rubber or plastic gloves and safety goggles. Always work in a well-ventilated area. Open windows and run fans to prevent the fumes from building up. If you have breathing difficulties, you may even want to wear a respirator designed to block or filter strong fumes.
Popular ideas include broken or re-purposed jewelry, flowers, glitter, sprinkles, transparencies with words printed on them, scraps of fabric, scraps of ribbon, and decorative scrapbook paper. You can also buy special resin charms at craft stores or online. Some objects may not work as well as others, though. For instance, cured resin often obscures the facets of loose crystal gems, causing them to disappear inside the piece. [1] X Research source
If you skip this step, these embellishments may discolor. They can also cause more air bubbles to appear in the resin.
Bezels are empty, open-ended charm settings. Once you pour the resin in and let it cure, the piece is finished and ready to attach to a chain. Molds will only allow you to shape the resin. You will need to take additional steps to turn the resin into a pendant or charm before using it, such as inserting hooks and clasps. Make sure that any molds you use are labeled specifically for use with resin.
Do not spray bezels with mold release. Mold release makes it easier for you to remove the finished resin pieces. Since the resin is supposed to stay inside the bezel, you’ll want it to remain stuck in place as firmly as possible. Most silicone molds do not need mold release, however, it is required if you use plastic molds.
Make sure that the tape is secure and that there are no gaps between it and that side of the bezel. This is not necessary if you are using a mold or if the bezel is already closed on one side. Only follow this step if you are using a bezel with two open sides.
Polyester resin is more toxic and tends to retain an odor even after the pieces harden. To make the process easier, you should also make sure that the resin you buy is mixed in a one-to-one ratio with its catalyst.
Do not use boiling water. Warming the resin and catalyst in this manner makes it easier to mix the two components smoothly. It also reduces the likelihood of dealing with air bubbles.
Pay attention to the ratio specified in your resin’s instructions. Some resins do not require 1:1 ratio, rather, they require a 1:2 or 2:1 ratio of resin to hardener. Follow the instructions that come with your resin for this step. Some resins may require more or less stirring time. Only mix as much resin as you expect to use. It will not stay in its liquid form for long, so if you make too much, it’ll go to waste. Pour the resin in first, then follow it with an equal amount of the catalyst. Use a graduated measuring cup and measure out both components directly inside the cup. Old, clean cough syrup measuring cups work very well for this, but any graduated measuring cup should suffice. Make sure that you use a cup you don’t mind sacrificing, though. It can be reused for other resin projects, but you should not reuse this measuring cup for food, drink, or medicine purposes. Stir slowly to prevent air bubbles from building up. Scrape the stick along the edges and bottom of the cup as you stir to ensure thorough, even mixing.
Add liquid colors one drop at a time, stirring after each addition. Combine dry pigments such as mica powder with a little resin in a separate cup first, then combine the colored solution with the rest of the clear resin. Some dyes are clear, while others are opaque or even pearly. Most add-ins will not show up well if using pearly or opaque dyes.
Work slowly to reduce the number of air bubbles.
Even though you’ll be adding another layer of resin later, it’s best to remove the air bubbles in this layer now instead of waiting until the end.
The bottom of the mold or bezel will be the front of your piece, so place the items in upside-down. By placing the heavy embellishments in between layers of resin, you help hold them in place. If you added them without using layers, the pieces would likely move around or sink before the resin sets.
This layer of resin should reach the top of the bezel or mold. You may need to adjust the position of your embellishments with a toothpick if they shift during this time.
Glitter is small and light, so it should float on the surface of the resin as it dries. Since the top will later become the back of the piece, the glitter will create a background.
Use tweezers to dunk the transparency into the leftover resin in your measuring cup. Quickly dry the resin with your heat gun or hair dryer. Coating the transparencies will help reduce the risk of air bubbles forming between them and the resin in your mold. The bottom of your mold or bezel will end up being the front of your piece, so place the transparency in upside-down.
Make sure that the paper is upside-down when you place it in so that the decorative side shows from the front of the piece.
It is important to cover the resin as it cures to protect it from dust or other debris. Curing times can vary, so you’ll need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Only cure it long enough for the resin to be touchable. Do not wait until the resin is fully cured.
If the pieces are still too soft to remove, try placing the mold in your freezer for 10 minutes. That should make it easier to pop the finished pieces out. At this point, the resin piece is ready to work with, but you’ll need to take additional steps before you can wear it as jewelry.
Do not remove the resin from the bezel. At this point, the resin charm is complete and ready to use as wearable jewelry.
Work carefully to prevent accidental burns. Use an eye pin that is just a little shorter than the width of the resin piece.
Press the pin in until it extends roughly halfway through the resin piece. This will only work if the resin is only partially cured. If you allowed it to cure completely, it will be too hard and unyielding.
This completes the project and turns your resin piece into a wearable pendant or charm.
Work quickly to prevent the adhesive from setting before it’s attached to the resin. Keep the mount or backing as centered as possible.
This step completes the project and turns your resin piece into a wearable ring or brooch.
