Softer woods are more likely to crack or splinter during the shaping process. Look for sample wood billets at local stores that specialize in home improvement and woodworking. A large piece of scrap wood will typically only cost you a few dollars—if you’re lucky, you might even be able to find some for free. [1] X Research source
If the piece of scrap wood you’re using is larger than 1⅜” (3. 5 cm), it may be necessary to measure and mark both vertically and horizontally.
This square block of wood is commonly referred to as a “blank. " You’ll transform the blank to a finished ring through repeated sanding and shaping. If you don’t have access to a power saw, you can also do it the old fashioned way using a handsaw, though this will require more time and labor due to the density of the wood.
Don’t worry about getting the placement just right—you’ll be removing a lot of excess material from the outer edges, so you’ll have plenty of room for error.
The pointed tip of the drill bit will mark the placement of the finger hole, while the angled corners bore out the outer edges of the ring. To be certain that the ring will come out the right size, take one of your own rings and slide the bit inside. It should be able to fit without touching.
If you don’t have access to a vice or C-clamp, try using a pair of pliers to grip the outermost edge of the wood. [4] X Research source Under no circumstances should you attempt to hold the blank by hand.
Drilling straight through a piece of wood with a spade bit can result in splintering.
By drilling halfway through the blank at a time, you can minimize the risk of chipping or breaking your materials.
If you take the manual approach, start with a medium-grit sandpaper (around 80 grit) and follow it up with a few passes with a high-grit one (100-120 grit) to get the most seamless texture. Hold off on testing the ring’s fit until you’ve sanded it thoroughly. Being impatient to try it on is a good way to get splinters!
For more precise dimensions, try tracing with the aid of a scribing compass. Due to the risk of breakage, it’s not recommended that you go any thinner than about 2mm.
Measure, mark, and saw the corners carefully to avoid cutting into the body of the ring. Wear safety goggles, make sure the ring is secure in the clamp or jig, and be really careful when cutting off the corners of the blank.
Work carefully and be patient. Shaping is the most time-consuming part of the process, and it may take a little while for you to end up with a ring you’re happy with.
Doing your sanding by hand will offer you greater control over how much material you’re taking off if you’re concerned about damaging the ring after all the hard work you’ve put into it. Beveling wears down the squared corners, making the ring more comfortable to slide on and off.
Exposure to intense heat will cause the fibers in the wood to draw up, making them stronger.
Waxes and oils act as a natural buffer against dirt, moisture, and scratches, and will keep your ring from cracking or splitting over time. No need to worry if you’re unable to track down a fancy finish—the natural oils secreted by your skin will coat the ring with enough wear. [12] X Research source
