It’s okay to take stem cuttings from Nepenthes at any time of the year, but this method is most reliable during the plant’s growing season. [4] X Research source
A stem that still has leaves on it will usually grow a new tip after you take a cutting. If you want to grow lots of little pitcher plants, cut an entire stem instead of just the tip. However, only do this if the plant has a healthy basal rosette (a circle of leaves at the base of the plant) so that it can keep growing new stems and pitchers.
You’re more likely to get good growth from a stem section that has at least 2-3 nodes on it. Cut off the bottom leaf of the stem segment, but leave any other leaves in place. Some gardeners recommend cutting the remaining leaves in half to help the plant retain water as new roots form. You can also lightly brush a little fungicide onto the stem and leaf cuts with a cotton swab to prevent infections.
If you use coir, make sure the label states that it has been well-rinsed with rainwater. Otherwise, it might be too salty for your cuttings. Some horticulture hobbyists like to root Nepenthes cuttings in water. However, for this to work, you’ll need to change the water frequently to prevent rot. Adding an aerator, such as a fish tank bubbler, may also help.
Put the plant in a well-lit area, such as near a sunny window. However, keep it out of direct sunlight, which will be too harsh for the new plantlets. [9] X Research source
As long as the leaves on your cutting are still green, there’s still hope that it will grow roots. Don’t worry if it takes a long time—some Nepenthes cuttings can take several months to root. [10] X Research source If you’re growing several cuttings in the same container, pull out any dead cuttings as soon as you notice them so they don’t spread rot. If you plan to replant the cuttings outdoors, give them time to acclimate by putting them outside for just a few hours a day at first.
Established Serracenia plants need to be divided every 3 years so that they don’t get overcrowded, especially if they live in pots. [14] X Research source
Once you’ve removed the plant from the pot, lay it out on a clean surface, such as a work bench or table. You might want to spread out a plastic drop cloth, since this process can be messy.
If the plant is old enough, the rhizomes will begin to separate naturally. In that case, you may only need to gently pull them apart. You can also use pruning shears to snip apart tougher rhizomes.
If you noticed any dead or diseased areas on the rhizomes, slice them away with a sharp knife or razor.
You can also keep the soil moist by setting the pot in a tray of rainwater. It will take a few months for the divided plants to completely grow back. But, with a bit of patience, you’ll soon have a beautiful crop of new leaves and pitchers!
Just keep in mind that growing trumpet pitchers from seed is more time-consuming than other methods, like rhizome division. Store the seeds in an envelope in your fridge until you’re ready to use them. When you take them out, let the container warm up to room temperature before removing the seeds from the envelope to protect them from condensation.
You might find it helpful to label the bag with its contents and the date.
You can also leave them outside over winter—it’s okay for them to freeze as long as they haven’t actually sprouted yet.
You should see tiny shoots starting to grow in about 2-4 weeks. Once the plants have some true leaves, you can remove them from the bag or humidity dome. Put them outside in direct sun, or keep them in a greenhouse if you’re worried about bad weather. Check the soil often and water it any time it starts to dry out.
The stolons of cobra lilies look like little vines growing out from the base of the plant, under the soil. If you’re growing cobra lilies in a pot, you might need to unpot them to find the stolons, which will be mixed in with the roots.
Each section of stolon should have a few roots on it. While you can grow individual plants from each section of the stolon, you can also simply leave the stolon intact and replant the baby plant already growing at the end of the runner. [35] X Research source
Place the tray with the stolons in a humid, cool, well-lit spot. To maintain humidity, it may help to put them in a terrarium or under a humidity hood. In a few weeks, new plants should begin to grow from the stolon sections.
Darlingtonia is sensitive and difficult to grow. Plant the young plants in live sphagnum moss or a mix of sphagnum moss, peat moss, fine orchid bark, and pumice. [39] X Research source Set the pot in a tray of water to help the soil stay moist. If possible, use rainwater, since the pH of tap water is often too high for these delicate plants. [40] X Research source
You can also grow these plants by division of the crown (the base of the plant, where the stalks meet the roots) or the roots. While you can grow Cephalotus from seed, this method is extremely slow. It can also be difficult to get viable seeds. This method also works for Darlingtonia, especially if your plant isn’t putting out runners. [43] X Research source
It’s easiest to get young leaves and pitchers to root, so try to take newer ones rather than older or more mature ones. If you’re having trouble getting a good grip on the leaf or pitcher, try using tweezers. Just be careful not to crush the stem! The new growth will form at the base of the petiole, or the part of the stalk where the leaf or pitcher attaches to the crown of the parent plant. Keep as much of the petiole intact as possible when your remove the leaves or pitchers. [46] X Research source
Alternatively, you can use a mixture of sphagnum peat moss, perlite, and horticultural sand. [48] X Research source
Be patient—it can take up to 9 months for the cuttings to root and start to grow new plantlets! As long as the leaf or pitcher cuttings are green, they could still be viable.
Always leave the largest 1-2 crowns in place at the base of the parent plant. Repot the parent plant after dividing the crowns. Try to take sections of crown with their own roots. If not all the crowns have their own roots, don’t worry. You may still be able to get the cuttings to take and form new roots. It takes about 2-3 months for new growth to appear on crown or root cuttings. After that, you can remove the cuttings from their plastic bag and place them in a high-humidity terrarium.
Try to maintain a humidity level of around 60%-80% in your growing area. This is enough to keep the plant moist without encouraging rot or pests. [54] X Research source
