Any particulate left inside or around the crack can get caught in the resin and cause the repair to be weaker.
If the crack is still wet, or the board feels heavier in that area, allow it to dry for another 1-2 days before beginning your repairs.
If you’re having trouble seeing the foam, shine a light into the crack. Normally, you will be able to see the color of the foam inside the board.
Sanding a larger area is important because you want to blend the resin in with the surface of the board. If you don’t do this, you run the risk of only repairing part of the crack.
UV resin will hold up to most normal surfing dings and cracks for 2-3 months. After that, you will need to repair the board again or have it professionally repaired.
As you’re working, push any bubbles out of the resin as they form. Try to make the resin as smooth as possible on the outside, but don’t worry if there are a few small bumps.
Try to avoid pressing on the plastic wrap after it’s on the board, which can dent the resin before it cures. If you don’t have plastic wrap, use a plain piece of clear plastic and tape it to the board.
If the resin isn’t hardened after 10 minutes, place it in the shade for 5 minutes, and move it back into the sun.
Some resins require air to set. Check the directions on the packaging, and if necessary, remove the plastic wrap before letting it cure.
You may need to sand the edges of the resin a bit more to ensure that it lays flat against the board and isn’t wavy or bumpy. Be careful not to over-sand with the rough grit sandpaper. Once the major bumps are flattened, switch to a smooth grit to prevent divots from forming in the resin.
If you have a long crack in your board, cut a few smaller circles and line them up along the crack to cover the entire length.
Only use fine grit sandpaper over the fiberglass. A rougher grit may remove too much resin and could expose part of the fiberglass.
