High-quality 2-part epoxy kits sell for around $5–20. Just FYI, you only need 2 tiny tubes for most hairline cracks and chips. Don’t bother buying a commercial amount. If you prefer, you can use an acrylic putty repair kit. This is a great option if your tile is multicolored, since these kits come with dyes you can mix to match complex tile patterns. [2] X Research source
Cleaning the cracked tile will remove any dust and grime and ensure that the epoxy sticks to the surface of the tile itself. If you don’t have a dedicated soft-bristled brush, use an old toothbrush.
If you don’t have extra cardboard lying around, you can mix the epoxy on top of a strip of wax paper, a paper plate, or scrap wood. Don’t take your time here. Once the epoxies are mixed, you’ve got about 15-30 minutes to finish the job before the epoxy starts to harden. Many 2-part epoxies come with a specific applicator tool. Feel free to use that instead of a popsicle stick.
Try not to get the epoxy over the rest of the un-cracked surface of the tile. Wipe away any excess epoxy with a gloved finger or paper towel.
For the first 15-30 minutes of drying time, don’t touch the tile or set anything on top of it. Also, keep any pets and children in your home away from the tile.
If your tile has a bit of a glossier look, use oil-based automotive paint instead. [8] X Research source This step is optional. If you find that the epoxy is already close to the color of your tiles, you may choose to leave it undyed.
This won’t be a perfect repair, but if there’s a small crack that’s been bugging you and you want a 5-minute repair, this is the way to go.
If the nail polish is still damp after 15 minutes, wait an additional 15 minutes or so.
It may take 3-4 layers of nail polish to get the tile looking just right. Remember, this probably isn’t going to be perfect. You’re probably going to be in “as good as it gets” territory after 5-6 layers or more.
The sales staff will also be able to help you find a matching style of tile. If the home improvement store or tile shop doesn’t carry your tile, just purchase something similar.
Hammer with enough power to crack the tile but not so much force that you damage the wood or drywall beneath the tile. Also be careful not to damage any of the adjacent tiles! If you don’t have a center punch, you can use a small chisel or file. If you don’t have any of those, cover the adjacent tiles in painter’s tape and tap the tile gently with the back of your hammer.
It doesn’t need to be perfect. So long as the surface is flat enough for you to put the replacement tile in the opening and keep it mostly flush with the wall, you’re good to go.
Be careful not to get mortar on any of the other tiles. It’s hard to remove! Use thin-set mortar. The thick-bed stuff is really hard to work with and it’s not designed for individual tile replacement. You can also use any kind of waterproof adhesive if you prefer.
If you apply too much pressure, excess mortar will be pressed out from beneath the tile and come up on its sides.
A grout float is a large, flat tool with a handle that you can use to spread grout around. You can purchase one at a hardware store or home-improvement store. Make sure to use a color of grout that matches the existing grout that surrounds other tiles.
If you forget to clean off the tiles for a few hours, removing the grout will be a much harder job!
