Soldering iron and solder Knife or scissors Shrink tubing Wire strippers Multimeter
You can verify this by plugging your headphones into a different input and listening for audio there.
Set the multimeter to test continuity, marked by ))) or a similar symbol. Plug the black lead into the hole marked COM. Plug the red lead into the hole marked with an Ω, mA, or ))).
Make one slit next to the plug, and one slit next to the earpiece. The bare copper wire usually has a clear protective coat, so gently scrape the coat away with a knife. [1] X Research source Touch the wire in one slit with the black multimeter lead, then touch the other slit with the red lead. Wait for a response from the multimeter; if it beeps, the problem is in the plug or earpiece. If it does not beep, make a slit halfway along the cable and test each half of the cable. Make another cut in the half that does not beep. Repeat until you’ve found two points a few inches (several centimeters) apart that do not cause the multimeter to beep. Continue on to fixing the cable, skipping the test step.
Use a piece of tape or a Sharpie to mark the site of the break. If you already found the problem with a multimeter, skip this step.
If your cable looks like two cables glued together then each one will contain an insulated wire (the signal) and a bare wire (the ground). Apple headphones and other headphones with single cables have two insulated wires (the left and right signal) and a single bare ground wire.
If only one of your wires is broken, you might want to skip to soldering the wire, without cutting or splicing. This will save time, but the repair will be less sturdy. [4] X Research source
If you had to cut the wire several times to find the problem, slip on a tube over each cut.
For a pigtail splice, pick up the two exposed areas of wire that you want to connect. Place them parallel to each other and twist them together to join them. This is quick and easy, but the repair will be bulkier. For an in-line splice, overlap the wires end to end, then twist them in opposite directions. This is more difficult but the repair is easier to hide.
The tube will shrink down to about a quarter of its original size, which will allow it to fit snugly around your newly-repaired cable, keeping it strong and protected.
While some cables will have a plug which can screw off, the bulk of plug issues you’ll experience result from frayed wires inside of the cable.
If there are two ground wires, you’ll need to solder them together later.
If your wires are enamel-tipped, you may be able to skip this step.
If all of the like-colored wires are distinct, just make sure that any frayed ends of the wires are twisted together.
Skip this step if you can see the copper ends of the wires already.
The plug base should have two pins sticking out of the end. If it only has one, then you have got a mono, not stereo, plug.
You should allow the solder to cool fully before proceeding.
If you still have problems, most likely the wires are touching. Unscrew the cap and tug the wires apart.
Look for screws on the earpiece. You may need a size 0 crosshead screwdriver. Tug the padding gently. If it comes off, look for screws underneath it. Insert a spudger or other flat tool into the crack at the base of the earpiece dome. Lever it apart. This may cause damage to some models, so finding directions first is recommended. Earbuds can be tugged apart, but you may need a new rubber seal afterwards. The problem is usually in the cable for earbuds. [11] X Research source
If more than one wire is loose, you may need to find a manual to see which wire goes where. Make sure none of the wires touch each other.
Cut the rubber seal around the central cone with a sharp knife. Remove the conical driver. Place the new driver back in the same slot. Be very careful not to touch the thin diaphragm. If it doesn’t feel secure, add a small amount of glue around the edge.
