Mow the grass closely. Cover it with layers of cardboard or newspaper (use black ink; colored ink could contain metals). Wet the covering and top it off with grass clippings (4 inches / 10 cm or more), compost, 6-inch (15cm) wood chips, or another organic mulch. Black plastic also works. It will block the sun and prevent photosynthesis. Avoid heavy mulching in shady areas,which prevents the soil from warming up, causing too much moisture in the root zone. The layers of your old lawn will break down, making compost. The soil is now ready for planting.
Keep the lawn covered for about 7 weeks. Cloudy days slow things down. The hottest days with direct sunlight are optimal for solarization. Remove the plastic when the grass has died. The dead grass can also be removed, or you can leave it as compost. Clear plastic is preferable to opaque because more sunlight can get to the grass surface. Thick plastic will last longer because it’s sturdier and resists tears.
Select a herbicide that will degrade quickly. This will minimize how long it stays in the environment. Herbicides containing glyphosate are a wise choice. Add just a few drops of dishwashing liquid soap or another surfactant to help the herbicide stick to vegetation. Apply the herbicide on a sunny day (60 degrees or above) so that the herbicide will dry quickly. Choose a day with little to no wind to avoid drifting. Reapply the herbicide if the turf has not completely died. Wait about four weeks before reapplying. Wait one week after the final application. Till the dead turf into your soil.
Rent a sod cutter if you don’t have one. They’re about $70. 00 per day. Alternately, you can use a flat shovel rather than a sod cutter. It’s less expensive, but it’s a lot more labor. Cut the sod into strips. [5] X Research source After cutting the sod, roll up the strips and dispose of them. Alternately, you can leave the sod in place by inverting it and using it for compost. Cover the inverted sod in 6 to 10 layers of newspaper. The decomposed sod improves the soil and prevents grass from regrowing. Do not leave the sod in place if it contains undesirable weeds or invasive grasses. You can also use the inverted sod to make high places on your lawn or to fill in low places.
Take multiple samples from different locations around the lawn and at different depths of the soil, near the surface and 8 to 10 inches (20–25cm) or more in depth. Label each one clearly.
The ground should slope away from your house in all directions. It should drop about 2 ½ inches every 10 feet (3 m). Use a landscaping rake if the grading adjustments are minor. Water the area and fill in puddled areas with soil from the high spots on your lawn. The finished grade should be at the level of surrounding areas like a patio or sidewalk. If you’re adding amendments to the soil than adjust the grading depth to about 2 inches (5 cm) lower than the fixed surfaces (such as a patio) bordering your new lawn.
Add organic matter, lime, sulfur or fertilizer to serve as amendments for the site of your new lawn. [9] X Research source Don’t cultivate the soil it too finely. You’ll want to avoid the soil crusting into a hard surface which prevents seeds from emerging. Aim for soil that isn’t dense and will allow seeds to grow. [10] X Research source
Select the seed that works best for your lawn environment. Your seed-seller can make a recommendation. Use a drop-spreader to distribute the seeds. The drop-spreader has a dropper with adjustable holes. Most lawn products will suggest what size hole you should use. The drop spreader is good for most lawns under 4,000 square feet. [13] X Research source For lawns over 4,000 feet (1,000 m), use a broadcast spreader. They’re faster and allow for a wider distribution of seeds. [14] X Research source In tight corners or confined spaces, sprinkle seed by hand for best placement.
Mow in different directions each time for more even cut and growth.
Avoid too much slope for your new lawn. The maximum slope is about twelve inches for every four feet. If your slope is greater than that you might need to build a retaining wall. Use a hose to water the site for your new lawn. Note areas where puddles have formed. Use a rake to fill in the low areas on your lawn with soil from the high spots. Be sure the finished grade is level with the areas surrounding your lawn site. If the soil test report suggests you need soil amendments, allow an additional 2 inches (5 cm) of depth to accommodate them.
Measure the square-footage of your lawn carefully so that you can order the right amount of sod. It’s best to go over a bit to cover cutting around curves . . . about 5% over should do the trick. [21] X Research source
Lay your first strip in the longest straight section of your yard. Keep off the sod during installation. Pat down the sod so that it’s flat against the soil beneath it. Lay the next row of sod. Cut the sod in half first and lay it in a staggered design (as bricks are laid). Roll out each roll in the same direction. If rolled in different directions, your lawn will look uneven (at least at first), and the seams may be harder to lay with adjacent strips. Make sure the sections of sod are snug against each other, without overlapping. Continue this process for your whole lawn, cutting sections and staggering them as you lay them down. You can cut holes in the sod for ground sprinklers if you plan on using them. Use a knife to trim the sections of sod that abut paved areas.
Keep foot traffic on the sod to a minimum in the early stages.
Grass in the heat of summer will fare better if allowed to grow taller and cut on the mower’s highest setting. The taller growth helps retain moisture at ground level. After three to four weeks growth, add fertilizer to the lawn. This will replace nutrients lost to watering and wet weather. [25] X Research source
