Put the bolts into a plastic bag. Label the bag clearly, then set it aside.
Place the screws into another plastic bag. Label the bag and set it aside as well.
If the fabric is old, there may be some sealant connecting it to the track. Cut this sealant away. If you notice any grit, scrape that away too.
Consider working on top of a tarp. This way, if you drop anything, it will be easier to find.
The back of the awning roller tube is on the left. The front of the roller tube is on the right side.
It is very important that you count the rotations. You will need to use the same amount to screw the bolt back on.
Pop rivets are a type of screw. You will find them on the outer edge of the endcap. They are what secures the endcap to the roller tube. Have someone help you rotate the roller tube. A person at each end of the tube should do the trick.
There are usually 3 channels, but the fabric is only inserted into 2 of them. If your awning has a valance, draw a “V: next top the channel that the valance is tucked into.
Do not use silicone caulking. It is not the same thing. You can find spray silicone lubricant online and in hardware stores.
Awning fabric has beading inside it. Make sure that this beading is inside the channels.
The silicone lubricant should make this step easy. If needed, spray more lubricant into the channels.
Do the top rivet first, then rotate the tube and do the bottom rivet.
Spray the inside of the track with spray silicone lubricant, just like you did for the 2 channels on the roller tube. The split end of the track is the end that you pried open with the flathead screw driver. The edges are sharp, so cover them with masking or electrical tape.
For an even more durable finish, coat the screws with a waterproof sealer first. Silicone caulking will work great here.
