For example, a living room that’s 22 feet (6. 7 m) by 28 feet (8. 5 m) will have an internal area of 616 feet (188 m). To install flooring in odd or irregularly-shaped rooms, it may be necessary to measure and trim the planks provisionally as you go. Rooms aren’t usually perfectly square, so take measurements multiple times throughout the replacement. [2] X Expert Source Jacob PischerHome Improvement Specialist Expert Interview. 4 September 2020.
Store the flooring in your living room or foyer rather than the garage until you get your project underway. Removing the planks from their packaging as soon as they’re delivered will expose them to more direct airflow, which can help them acclimate faster. [4] X Research source
Handle the pry bar carefully to avoid damaging the wall. Use the claw end of a hammer to coax out any stubborn finishing nails you happen to come across.
Keep a couple oversized garbage bags nearby while. That way, you’ll have a place to put the stripped laminate as you work so you can dispose of it easily when you’re finished.
Use a level to check the level of the subfloor before and after prepping it. It’s critical to start with a perfectly level surface in order to get the laminate planks to lay correctly. [7] X Research source
Sweep up larger pieces of debris and dispose of them separately. Be sure to check for potential obstructions, like splintered wood chips and loose nails. Avoid oversaturating wooden subfloors. If you get them too wet, you’ll have to wait for them to dry completely before you can begin installing the laminate.
Most new laminate flooring features a built-in foam underlayment to block out harmful moisture. If the planks you’ve purchased don’t have this layer, you’ll need to put down a separate barrier. If you live in an area with high humidity, a moisture barrier can help protect your new laminate flooring and subfloor from rotting, warping, or mildewing. A moisture barrier is a must when installing laminate over concrete subfloors, since they can’t absorb and disperse moisture. [9] X Research source
Orient the planks so that they’re parallel with the room’s longest wall.
You’ll be able to find spacers in the same aisle as the flooring materials at your local home improvement center. Thin pieces of 3⁄8 inch (0. 95 cm)-1⁄4 inch (0. 64 cm) plywood can also be employed as makeshift spacers.
While a table saw, circular saw, or miter saw will make the cleanest cuts and help reduce splintering, a standard handsaw will also get the job done. [13] X Research source Be sure to subtract 3⁄8 inch (0. 95 cm) from the floor measurement you take to account for expansion.
Staggering the seams in the flooring ensures that it’s equally sturdy at every point. It also makes for a more attractive overall appearance.
If you’re having trouble fitting one plank into another, try angling it in from a few inches above the floor. The tongue-edge and groove-edge of all the planks should be facing the same direction. [16] X Research source
It may be necessary to rip the final row of planks (cut them lengthwise) to get them to properly fit the remaining space.
Allow the weighted objects to remain in place until you begin installing the next few rows. You also have the option pushing a weighted roller over the entire floor when you’ve finished installing it.
Don’t subtract the 3⁄8 inch (0. 95 cm) expansion gap allowance for the transition strips. They need to be left slightly longer in order to sit flush.
Measure and cut new moulding to the room specifications you took previously. Don’t forget to remove the spacers from around the edges of the room before putting the moulding back on.
