If your garment has 2 seams which overlap, the hook should be on the overlay, and you’ll put the eye on the underlay. [2] X Research source However, a bar closure, rather than an eye, is often used for overlapping seams. [3] X Research source
You can use a pen with disappearing ink instead of tailor’s chalk, if you’d prefer. However, it’s a good idea to test the ink somewhere inconspicuous first, like on an inside seam, to make sure it will come off when you’re finished. You can also place a pin in the garment if you don’t want to draw on it.
A basic sewing needle, called a sharp, is ideal for this project. They come in sizes 1-12, and the size you’ll need will depend on the size of your hook. The needle needs to be small enough to fit through the loops and the hook and eye, but not so small that it bends when you pass it through the fabric. [6] X Research source The thread won’t be visible in your finished project, but the hook and eye will look nicer if you use thread that matches—or at least coordinates with—your fabric. If you’re not sure what size needle you need, buy an assortment pack. These are typically very inexpensive and will allow you to experiment with different sizes.
This is called “popping” the knot.
Remember not to sew all the way through the fabric. The needle should never come out through the top layer of the garment. This helps hook lay flat against the garment [9] X Research source
Place the stitches close together, since you want the loop to be completely (or at least mostly) covered by the thread. [11] X Research source A blanket stitch is more secure and looks nicer than a regular stitch. You can also use a buttonhole stitch, if you’re more comfortable with that.
It will look best if you use the same color thread for the hook and the eye.
The eye should also be placed about 1⁄8 in (0. 32 cm) from the edge of the garment.
Attaching the hook and eye in the first place helps ensure that you put the eye exactly where it needs to go. However, it will be easier to sew the eye into place if it’s not attached to the hook.
At no point should your needle come out through the top of your garment. This will leave visible stitches on the outside of the fabric.
Since you’ll go back around the loop with the blanket stitches, these first stitches don’t have to be as secure.
Make sure the stitches are very close together. [19] X Research source You can also use buttonhole stitches, if you’d like.
You don’t want to sew too much here, since you still want to be able to lift the eye enough for the hook to slide through. Just 2-3 stitches on either side should be enough.
You may want to attach the hook and eye at this point to make sure the closure is lined up correctly, and to ensure the fabric doesn’t pull or pucker at the fastener.
