You can make your pants pockets any size you like, but a 10 by 5 in (25 by 13 cm) rectangle is a good size. If you want to use a pattern, but don’t have one, there are some free pocket patterns available online. [2] X Research source If you prefer a curved edge on the bottom of the pockets, then cut out a rectangle and then cut around the corners on 1 side to round them out.
Make sure that the pins go all the way through the pattern and fabric. You can use any woven cotton fabric for your pockets. For dress pants, a common choice is silesia. [4] X Expert Source David PewProfessional Tailor Expert Interview. 5 January 2021.
Repeat this 1 time to make a second matching piece for the pocket. You will need 2 pieces for each pocket, so create a total of 4 pieces if you want to add 1 pocket on each side of your pants. If you notice any notches on the paper pattern pieces, make sure to cut around these when you cut out the fabric. These will be useful for lining up your pocket pieces.
For example, there may be 2 dots on the paper pattern piece to indicate where you will need to leave the pocket opening. Mark these on the same spots of your fabric pieces. If you created your own pattern, then you will not need to worry about adding marks to the fabric pieces.
If you are adding pockets to pants that are already finished, then you will need to open up the side seam of your pants to attach the pockets. Use a seam ripper to cut away the stitches in the side seam from the top of the waistband down to the bottom of the pocket. [8] X Expert Source David PewProfessional Tailor Expert Interview. 5 January 2021. If the pattern has notches on it, make sure to line these up with any notches in your pants. [9] X Research source Make sure you pin the pocket so it isn’t going to show from the outside. [10] X Expert Source David PewProfessional Tailor Expert Interview. 5 January 2021.
Do not pin the front and back of the pants or pocket piece together at this time. Only pin 1 pocket piece to 1 pants piece.
Make sure to remove the pins as you sew. Do not sew over them or you may damage your sewing machine.
For example, if you are sewing 1 pocket into each side of your pants, then sew 1 piece onto the front and 1 piece onto the back piece on each side of the pants for a total of 4 pocket pieces.
For delicate fabrics, use the lowest possible setting on your iron. You may also want to lay a t-shirt or thin towel over the fabric before you sew.
Ensure that the edges of the pants are lined up going from the waistband to the bottom of the pant legs. Line up any notches in the pocket pieces or pants at this time as well. [16] X Research source
You may also place 2 pins in an X shape through each of these dots to remind yourself not to sew across this section of the pocket. If you are not working from a pattern, measure 1 in (2. 5 cm) from the top of the pocket and then measure a 5 in (13 cm) wide line along the seam where the pants and pocket meet. Mark the space with pins at each end. [18] X Research source
Sew slowly to ensure a straight line of stitches. Be careful not to sew across the pins or you may damage your sewing machine. Remove the pins as you sew.
Make sure to go extra slow when your backstitch to avoid going too far back.
Make sure to apply gentle pressure at the beginning of this stitch to ensure that you don’t sew too far down yet.
Repeat this process for the other side of your pants if you are adding 2 pockets.
Repeat the stitch on both sides of each pocket. The topstitch will make the pockets lay flatter and look neater.
Do not sew across the pocket opening or you will not be able to use the pocket. Repeat this for each of the pockets. After you finish sewing around the edges of the pocket, turn your pants right side out.
