Some machines require that the diamond dresser be in position, touching the wheel, before the machine is turned on. Read your machine’s operating manual to determine if this applies. [1] X Research source
The “radius” refers to the shape the grinding wheel takes out of skate that’s brushed against it. You may remember from geometry class that the radius of a circle is half its width. Think of a circle with a small radius and how that can cut into the end of a rectangle. It can overlap much more than a circle with a larger radius. Thus, smaller radii create much more dramatic edges (a deeper hollow) than the more blunt edges of larger radii (a shallow hollow). [2] X Research source Typical starting radii include: 3/8" for very light skaters, 5/8" for average skaters, 3/4" for heavy skaters, and 7/8" – 1 1/4" for hockey goalies. Start with these guidelines but tailor your radius to what ends up working best for you. For increased glide, select a radius of 1" or higher. For better grip and control, pick one that is 3/8" or smaller. [3] X Research source
The exact method for dressing your wheel, and for machine-sharpening in general, will vary depending on the model you’re using. Always consult your machine’s user guide and documentation for details.
You will also need something to lubricate your stone, which will depend on the particular type you use. This will usually be water, some type of oil, or a mixture thereof. If you are a speed skater, you probably want skates that are completely flat, creating a perfect 90 degree angle with the ice.
If you are using a set of traditional oil-lubricated stones for the first time, you will need to saturate them with oil before their first use. In a plastic container, pour or brush some oil onto one side of the stone. Wait for the stone to absorb the oil before adding some more. Once the oil absorption slows, flip the stone over and repeat the process on the opposite side. Wrap the stones in plastic between sharpenings. This will prevent your stones from becoming clogged with dirty oil. [6] X Research source
Orient your skates parallel with the blades in the air, as if you were skating upside-down. The toe end of a jig usually has a guide-plate. Make sure the end of each blade is up against this plate before you finish tightening the clamps. The exact orientation of your blades isn’t as important as maintaining consistency between the right and left sides and across multiple sharpenings. For example, some people place the heel-ends of their blades up against the guide-plate instead of the toe-ends. As long as this is done every time the blades are sharpened, this is a perfectly valid way of mounting a skate.
Position your burr stone flat against the side of the blade with the top of the stone placed slightly past the top of the blade. Apply steady, even pressure to push your burr stone along the entire length of the blade in one motion. Repeat these strokes until the burr is removed. [7] X Research source
Which side and which end you start with doesn’t matter as long as you stay consistent between sharpening.
How many total sets you will need to do will depend on how dull the blade was when you began. A blade that has been recently sharpened may only need a few sets of 2x20, while a very dull skate may need a few dozen. [12] X Research source
Use a rag and some additional lubricant to clean off your stones before storing them. Proper maintenance will keep them working for a long time. [15] X Research source
