Consider the brand of the rifle. Most brand names are good buys, but, in the current active gun-buying market, can often be overpriced. Shop around, as prices at local dealer and on-line auction prices can vary considerably. As a rule of thumb, bolt-action rifles are usually more accurate and have a slightly higher muzzle velocity than an equivalent (price and quality) semi-automatic (auto-loading) rifle. The current crop of AR15 variants have achieved much higher accuracy, and are often advertised as capable of sub-MOA (Minute Of Angle) accuracy. [2] X Research source This means they can group shots within one “minute” of angle (roughly 1" at 100 yards) which is competitive with the better bolt guns. [3] X Research source Faster rifle twist ratios allow for heavier bullets to be shot more accurately through the rifle. For example, a . 223 barrel with a twist ratio of 1:12 may only be able to shoot a 40-52 grain bullet accurately, while a barrel with a twist ratio of 1:9 will be able to shoot, accurately, any bullet between 40 and 65 grains, it will also compensate (to a point) the . 223’s tendency to tumble after penetrating a target. [4] X Research source There are drawbacks to higher twist ratios though, muzzle velocity may be reduced by a percent or two, there can be extra wear and tear on the barrel, and over-stabilization of the bullet can result in less damage to the target (these are minor drawbacks, however).
There are drawbacks to higher twist ratios though, muzzle velocity may be reduced by a percent or two, there can be extra wear and tear on the barrel, and over-stabilization of the bullet can result in less damage to the target (these are minor drawbacks, however).
Larger calibers such as the . 338 Winchester Magnum or 45-70 and larger are helpful for use against very large wild game such as buffalo, or dangerous game abroad. However many people will suggest that accuracy is more important for hunting than caliber size, for instance some guides would have a client use a . 270 for animals like bear and moose if they can shoot it accurately over a higher powered cartridge like the . 300 Winchester Magnum.
Light bullets are often favored for varmint and target shooting. The higher velocity allows a flat trajectory within a couple hundred yards of the muzzle. The bullet reaches the target quicker, so less leading is required as well. Heavier bullets are preferred for game shooting. On contact with target, it delivers more energy in a shorter amount of time (which is more lethal). It may also reduce the likelihood of over-penetration. Over longer distances, due to ballistic coefficients (how streamlined the bullet is as it flies through the air), heavier bullets can produce flatter trajectories than light bullets, and are ultimately less affected by crosswind. An example for a . 223 (each caliber and rifle will behave differently): a 42 grain bullet (3700 FPS) at 100 yards (91. 4 m) will drop (with no sight-zero) about an inch and a half. At 500 yards (457. 2 m), it will drop probably around four feet and maintains about 80% of its velocity. A 65 grain bullet (3000FPS) at 100 yards (91. 4 m) will drop two inches, but at 500 yards (457. 2 m) will only drop three feet. At 500 yards (457. 2 m) the bullet maintains about 85% of its velocity. As a point of interest, if a bullet is dropped from your hand at exactly the same time as the same weight bullet leaves the muzzle of the rifle (fired horizontally to ground), BOTH bullets will hit the ground at the same time. Gravity has the same effect on a bullet that is stationary as it does on a bullet that is flying through the air.
With animals, height advantage is good. It allows you to see more area. But be sure to conceal most of your body in a thicket, tall brush, or by crawling. With larger game, studying their patterns and location over multiple trips to the same area can be very useful; if you know a deer’s escape route is past a long straight path, force them to run their escape, post on the path, and wait for them to cross.
It gives the most stable platform without human input. This allows you to sight in your sights or scope, so you know when you are holding the gun that it is your fault when you miss. If you are planning on hunting you should get better at the below stances because you are probably not going to take a bench with you on your hunt.
With a bipod or some other way to hold the front of the gun, it is often best to put your support (non-trigger) hand under the butt of the stock. This allows you to position the elevation of the sights or scope more precisely. If there is no bipod or other item to hold the front of the gun, your support hand should hold the front of the gun, this is less accurate than a bipod so invest in a good quality leather military style sling. Use a “loop sling” position. This is made by having the sling connected to the front swivel and the other end in a loop to go as high up on your bicep as possible. Then put your arm through the area between the rifle and sling. Then in a clockwise motion end up with the forward hand gripping the rifle under the front stock close to the swivel. You also have the option of making a make-shift bipod or tripod, or resting the front of the rifle on some other stable platform, like a backpack.
A common one is to sit on one foot laid sideways on the ground while putting your other foot in front of you as tight to your body as possible, this will bring your knee toward your face. Having something against your back is never a bad idea. You then place the rifle in your hand which is resting on the knee in front of you. You can also kneel or crouch behind anything hard, and rest the front of your gun (or bipod preferably) on it. Or you can use a “kneeling roll”, this is nothing more than an old carpet, shirt or old pant leg rolled up and duct taped stuck up where the laces in your boot are and the ground. This position also requires a “trick”, to make you more stable, point your forward foot’s toes inboard to your trigger fingers arm. You should be able to make accurate shots at 450 yards (411. 5 m) with this position.
Yet another trick is to start with the rifle in your shoulder, pointed up at the sky, your trigger hand on the stock and your supporting arm on the fore-end stock. Bring the rifle down meanwhile tuck your supporting arm into your hip, lean back and calmly breathe at the same time your cheek weld is being applied. You can shoot accurately up to 300 yards (274. 3 m) like this with proper practice.
A critical component of sniping is acquiring a good “cheek weld” or “stock weld”. This means your cheek bone is held fast against the butt stock to insure proper sight alignment and sight picture. The pocket of your shoulder will absorb the recoil. Without a good cheek weld, parallax in your scope is guaranteed and you will never become proficient with any sniper weapon system/ optic-equipped rifle.
Note: It also helps to practice ‘stress firing’, where you must take hasty shots with fatigue. Try running a quarter mile or whatever will bring up your heart rate and do enough push-ups so that your arms are twitching. Learn to compensate for the trembling in your muscles. If you only shoot paper targets, you can skip this, but in hunting or combat you may not have the luxury of rested muscles. At a minimum, try it as an experiment just to see to what degree stress impacts your ability to engage targets. There are many different techniques for breathing while standing, often it is recommended to have your lungs most of the way full. Hold your breath and wait until the reticle goes over your target. If you are a sniper, a sling is essential. Firing in a standing position is very fatiguing, especially supporting the barrel. A sling will help support the weight and allow the shooter a much higher degree of accuracy. For prone and kneeling, it is best to open your mouth and throat until your body is relaxed, this is when most of your air has exited your lungs. Relax, if your heart rate is slow enough, you can stay like this for 10 or 15 seconds, be patient and wait until the reticle stops over your target. Once you practice while exhaled a few times you will notice the reticle bounces in sync with your heart beat. You want to fire between beats (on the downbeat of your heart) which allows the most time for a stable shot (this will be only a fraction of a second, but that is when you are able to be most accurate). Try to avoid eye fatigue. If you stare through the scope for more than 15 seconds, you are bound to develop parallax or lose focus on your target.
If it will not damage your weapon, practice ‘dry fire’ exercises to develop good trigger control. It can help you develop skill without wasting ammunition or being so ‘spooked’ by the recoil you cannot focus on the trigger tension. If the gun does not have a set trigger, then it likely has a trigger pull of about 2-5 pounds. In this case, you must get used to your trigger. Practice pulling the trigger most of the way back, just before the point the hammer releases. Try doing that until you are at the point that you can release the hammer (smoothly) on command. It is important never to fire before you want to, so be sure there is some threshold where you stop. NOTE: Precision sniper rifles have two-stage triggers, so that you will know when you are about to fire. Otherwise the advice above is golden. If you do not pull the slack out of the trigger before committing to the shot, you are virtually guaranteed to miss your target. This applies to ALL firearms. Even black-powder rifles had two separate triggers, the second being the ‘hair trigger’. [20] X Research source With a set trigger, the trigger pull is closer to 8-14 ounces. This makes life much easier. The effort to pull the trigger can be done as soon as you intend to shoot. Be sure to practice and get used to the light pull.
Depending on the selected zero range, bullet, and rifle (you must do research or testing to find the case with your setup) this may mean the bullet is below the reticle before zero, then above after zero, and eventually falls again to (at a different distance) be lined up with the reticle again (this may be 120 yards or 300, and it will likely change from rifle to rifle, even in the same caliber). Another scenario is that the bullet climbs sooner, and from (say) 40 to 100 yards (36. 6 to 91. 4 m) is above the reticle, it then falls to meet your zero, and from then on (100 and more yards) is below the reticle (this is likely low-power rifles like . 22LR). The most conventional way to zero the scope is to fire a shot. Determine how far off target the bullet lands, then adjust the scope accordingly. Most scopes have windage and elevation knobs which can be turned to compensate for inaccuracies. The elevation is usually on the top and affects the bullet’s point of impact (POI) vertically. The windage is usually on the right side of the scope and affects the bullet’s POI horizontally. [22] X Research source Most scopes have either mil-dot or ballistic plex reticle which allows the shooter to easily line up a shot at distances further than the zeroed point. Most scopes come with a chart to show based on the bullet’s caliber and weight where to line up the reticle. Though it would be much more accurate if you make your own chart. While military snipers practice adjusting the windage and elevation for the specific situation, it usually isn’t practical for hunters or recreational shooters to measure wind speed and other factors to the target and adjust the scope. It is often best just to do approximate calculations and “hold-off” the reticle, so re-zeroing the scope is not necessary. There are many factors that need to be taken into account when adjusting the scope, here are a few of them (in general order of priority): Distance to target, bullet velocity, cross wind, bullet weight, shot angle, and others. There are computer or PDA calculators which can calculate the exact landing position of the bullet based on all the information above (at least the major points). The calculators usually assume you re-zero your reticle. That is the best way to be perfectly accurate, but for target shooting where you don’t need a one-shot-one-kill, re-zeroing is a lot of hassle. Scopes (except low-end scopes) also have adjustable parallaxes which allow the shooter to essentially place the reticle on the same distance plane as the target. This is essential to take an accurate shot. Most parallaxes have distances listed on them, use them as basic guidelines. [23] X Research source A way to “cheat” the parallax is to place your head in a relief position where you can see black around the edge while viewing down the scope. Move your head and eye to make the black area even on all edges around the reticle. Read How to Use a Rifle Scope for more information on most of the points in this section.
A way to “cheat” the parallax is to place your head in a relief position where you can see black around the edge while viewing down the scope. Move your head and eye to make the black area even on all edges around the reticle.
