Wear heavy-duty work gloves and sturdy, long pants and a long-sleeve shirt when removing carpet. You’ll come across lots of sharp tacks and/or staples!

Seal off any nearby interior doorways with plastic sheeting. Affix it with masking tape. However, don’t seal off a doorway if it provides your closest source of fresh air ventilation, such as a window or exterior door. Lay down drop cloths on nearby floors or carpets.

For added safety, also wear a respirator and goggles to protect yourself from any fumes and small dust particles. A dust mask will keep you from breathing in sanding dust, but won’t prevent you from inhaling fumes.

Nail sets look like tiny spike or a really thick nail. [5] X Expert Source Walter BrantHandyman Expert Interview. 1 October 2020.

Use painter’s tape for the best results, or regular masking tape. Leave the tape in place until the entire job is finished.

Chemical strippers are usually applied to the surface with a brush, then scraped off with a putty knife after a designated waiting period. Follow the specific instructions that come with your stripper. Wear chemical-resistant cleaning gloves, goggles, and a respirator when applying and removing the stripper. Wipe the stripped stairs with a clean, slightly damp rag before moving on to sanding.

Medium-grit sandpaper is in the 60-100 grit range. Follow the product instructions carefully if you’re using an orbital sander. Wear thick gloves, eye protection, and a respirator. Apply even pressure and keep the sander in constant motion. When sanding by hand, use smooth, even, back-and-forth strokes.

Fine-grit sandpaper ranges from about 120-220 grit. Apply gentle, even pressure. You want the stairs to appear smooth but have the slightest amount of surface texture to to accept the stain.

As the name indicates, tack cloths are slightly sticky rags. You can buy them at any home improvement store. If you don’t have a tack cloth, use slightly dampened cloths, instead. [11] X Expert Source Walter BrantHandyman Expert Interview. 1 October 2020.

In any case, always work from the top step down—it’s much easier and more comfortable to do the job this way!

Oil-based products provide a deeper, richer, more durable finish. Water-based products are easier to clean up and are typically considered more eco-friendly. Wood conditioner isn’t absolutely essential, but is highly recommended in nearly all cases.

Wood conditioner causes softer woods to absorb stain more slowly, resulting in a more even finish with fewer blotches and streaks. If you’re not sure whether your stairs are made of a soft wood (like pine), a medium wood (like walnut), or a hardwood (like oak), go ahead and use wood conditioner. At worst, it will make no noticeable difference in the finished stain.

Sand in the direction of the grain, using even strokes.

Leaving the stain on for 15 minutes will produce a deeper, richer stain color than leaving it on for 5 minutes, but it might also conceal some of the natural beauty of the wood grain. It’s really a matter of personal preference when it comes to choosing a brush or a rag—either one will do a good job with the right technique.

Remember to keep wiping away the excess stain 5-15 minutes after application. Allow 4 hours between coats.

Stairs are high-traffic areas, so sealing them is essential. Remember to use a compatible varnish—oil-based with an oil-based stain, or water-based with a water-based stain. Allow the varnish to dry for the recommended time, such as 4 hours.

Wipe away the dust with a tack cloth before proceeding. Some floor-grade polyurethanes do not require sanding between coats, especially if the second coat is applied within 12 hours of the first coat. Check the product instructions.

After the drying time is complete, remove any drop cloths, painter’s tape, and other materials, and enjoy your beautiful new staircase!