One particularly beginner-friendly variety of Bonsai tree is the juniper. These evergreens are hardy, surviving all across the northern hemisphere and even in the more temperate regions of the southern hemisphere. In addition, juniper trees are easy to raise - they respond well to pruning and other “training” efforts and, because they are evergreens, never lose their leaves. They are rather slow growing, however. Other conifers commonly cultivated as Bonsai trees include pines, spruces, and cedars of many varieties. Deciduous (leafy) trees are another possibility - Japanese maples are especially beautiful, as are magnolias, elms, and oaks. Finally, some non-woody tropical plants, like jade and “snowrose”, are good choices for indoor environments in cool or temperate climates.
Indoor: Ficus, Hawaiian Umbrella, Serissa, Gardenia, Camellia, Kingsville Boxwood. Outdoor: Juniper, Cypress, Cedar, Maple, Birch, Beech, Ginkgo, Larch, Elm. Note that temperate species require winter dormancy or the tree will eventually die. They cannot be grown indoors for long periods of time.
Just a few things you’ll want to consider when deciding on the size of your Bonsai tree: The size of the container you’ll be using The space you have available at your home or office The availability of sunlight at your home or office The amount of care you’ll be able to invest in your tree (larger trees take longer to prune)
Note that if you choose to grow your Bonsai tree from a seed, you’ll have the ability to control your tree’s growth in nearly every stage of its development. However, it can take up to 5 years (depending on the species of tree) for a Bonsai tree to grow from a seed into a full-grown tree. [1] X Research source Because of this, if you’re interested in pruning or shaping your tree immediately, you’ll be better off buying a grown plant. Another option you have is to grow your Bonsai tree from a cutting. Cuttings are branches cut from growing trees and transplanted to new soil to start a separate (but genetically identical)[2] X Research source plant. Cuttings are a good compromise choice - they don’t take as long to grow as seeds, but they still offer a good deal of control over the tree’s growth.
While your pot must be large enough to support your tree, you’ll also want to maintain a neat, tidy aesthetic for your bonsai tree. Overly-large pots can dwarf the tree itself, giving a bizarre or mismatched appearance. Buy a pot big enough for the tree’s roots, but not much bigger - the idea is for the pot to complement the tree aesthetically, but to be relatively unobtrusive visually. Some prefer to grow their Bonsai trees in plain, practical containers, then transfer them to prettier containers when they’re full-grown. This is an especially useful process if your species of bonsai tree is a fragile one, as it allows you to put off the purchase of the “nice” pot until your tree is healthy and beautiful.
Know that trees with seasonal life cycles (for instance, many deciduous trees) are best transplanted in the spring. Rising temperatures in the spring cause many plants to enter a state of increased growth, which means they’ll recover from pruning and root trimming faster. You may want to reduce watering before re-potting. Dry, loose soil can be much easier to work with than damp soil.
The roots don’t have to be spotless - just clean enough that you’re able to see what you’re doing while you prune them.
If your plant comes with a recommended soil texture, it will do best in that kind of soil.
If your tree isn’t staying upright in your new pot, run a heavy gauge wire from the bottom of the pot through the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot. Tie the wire around the root system in order to hold the plant in place. You may want to install mesh screens over the pot’s drainage holes to prevent soil erosion, which occurs when water carries soil out of the pot via the drainage holes.
As noted above, deciduous trees with yearly life cycles experience a period of intensified growth in the spring. Because of this, it’s best to re-pot deciduous trees in the spring after their winter dormancy has ended. If your deciduous tree is an indoor plant, after allowing it to take root following a re-potting, you may want to move it outside where the rising temperature and increased sunlight can trigger its natural “growth spurt. " When your bonsai tree is established, you may want to experiment with adding other small plants to its pot. If carefully arranged and maintained (like your tree), these additions can allow you to craft a perfectly pleasing tableau. Try using plants that are native to the same area as your bonsai tree so that one water and light regimen will support all the plants in the pot equally well.
Many deciduous trees, like oaks, beeches, and maples, have instantly-recognizable seed pods (acorns, etc. ) that release from the tree on a yearly basis. Because of the ease of obtaining their seeds, these types of trees make great choices if you’re aiming to grow a bonsai tree from the seed. Try to get fresh seeds. The time window in which tree seeds can germinate is often smaller than that of flower or vegetable seeds. For instance, oak seeds (acorns) are “freshest” when they’re harvested in early autumn and they retain some of their green color. [4] X Research source
If you live in a temperate environment with defined seasons, you can simply bury your tree’s seed in a small pot full of soil and keep it outside throughout the winter and into the spring. If you don’t, you can keep your seeds in a refrigerator for the winter. Put your seeds in a plastic zip-lock bag with a loose, dampened growth medium (for example, vermiculite) and take them out in the spring when you see sprouts emerging. To simulate the natural cycle of gradually decreasing, then increasing temperature that takes place from the late autumn to early spring, place your bag of seeds at the bottom of the refrigerator initially. Over the next two weeks, gradually move it up, shelf by shelf, until it’s at the top, right next to the cooling unit. Then, at the end of winter, reverse the process, moving the bag down shelf-by-shelf. [5] X Research source
Don’t use fertilizer until about 5 or 6 weeks after the plants have established themselves in their new containers. Start small, using only very minor amounts of fertilizer, or you may “burn” the plant’s young roots, damaging them with overexposure to the chemicals in the fertilizer.
Regardless of where you keep your young seedlings, it’s important to ensure they receive frequent, but not excessive watering. Keep the soil damp, but not soggy.
Once your tree is fairly established, you can leave it outdoors in a spot where it receives morning sun and afternoon shade, provided that your species of tree is one that can naturally survive in your geographical location. Tropical plants and other fragile bonsai varieties may need to be kept indoors perpetually if your local climate isn’t suitable.
