If the quilt is antique, place a nylon or fiberglass screen across the quilt before vacuuming; this will protect the fibers from the strong suction.
Wait for a dry day without too much wind. Find a suitable shady spot outside. The spot should be fairly clean, such as concrete, nice grass or fresh new leaves, etc. Don’t choose a spot where there is a lot of dust liable to blow over the quilt. Throw a large cotton sheet across the ground. This will keep the quilt separate from the surface, preventing any potential stains. Lay the quilt over the sheet, taking care not to overlap at the edges. Alternatively, a quilt that is in good, strong condition can be laid over a clothesline. If so, throw the base sheet over several of the lines of the clothesline (as if you were laying the table), then drape the quilt across the sheet, over the several lines. This method will probably use up all of the clothesline, so avoid doing it on a usual washing day. Avoid pinning the quilt to the clothesline as usually done for drying clothing, as this will stretch the stitches and fibers too much.
Do you know the age of the quilt? A more recent quilt may be less impacted by a wash than an older one. What condition is the quilt in? If it’s already falling apart, washing is not really an option. However, it is possible to baste fraying edges with tulle, organza or netting before washing, provided you’re up for the extra effort. Have you tested the fabric dyes in the quilt? This is easier done if you made the quilt as you’ll likely have swatches of the fabric pieces used. If it’s an heirloom quilt, and the person who made it is still alive, ask this person whether the fabrics are dye-fast. If neither is possible, test by dampening a back or non-obvious section of each fabric pieces and blot with a white face washer or other cloth. If the dye comes off on the blotter, you’ll know it’s going to run during a wash. Even if it doesn’t come off on the blotter, try this test again with a little detergent this time; if the dye shows, the fabric will run when detergent is added. If both tests show no dye, it’s safe to wash. Has the quilt been washed before? If so, you’ll already know how it stood up to a wash. Is the quilt strong or fragile? Only strong quilts should be washed.
Fill the bath about 8 inches/20cm with lukewarm/tepid water. (If your local water is hard, consider using distilled water or rainwater from the tank, heated in a kettle or saucepan. ) Lower a large sheet into the bath first. This acts as a “sling” for the quilt. Gently lower the quilt onto the sheet. Press gently across the quilt. Swish the water around gently, but not the quilt; keep it steady. If using a detergent, make sure it is suitable for the quilt. Ask at a local quilt retailer or society for advice on a suitable detergent. A wool wash will usually be okay if you can’t find a specialized detergent but dilute it before adding it to the bathwater. Drain the water, taking care to keep the quilt away from the drain suction. Refill with lukewarm water for a rinse cycle. Gently agitate, drain again. Do this about 4 to 6 times until you feel the quilt has been cleaned adequately and the detergent is off the quilt. Drain one last time. Pat the quilt with large dry and clean towels. These will start to absorb leftover water from the quilt. Lift the quilt out of the bath by holding the corners of the sheet it is sitting on. Carry it outside to dry (see Airing above, although you may wish to substitute a blanket for a sheet on the ground). This really needs to be done with a helper, to prevent a mishap (and wet quilts tend to be heavy). When drying, place right side down to keep this as clean as possible. Allow to dry completely. It should not be stored until it is completely dry, to avoid the possibility of mildew growth.
Check that the quilt will fit. Many times they won’t and it’s no good pushing it in so tightly that it’ll break the washing machine. Use the delicate washing cycle only. Use wool wash for the detergent, or a suitable quilt detergent. Check the progress of the washing every half a minute. Stop the washing after 3 minutes. Use a short rinse cycle. If you have a gentle spin dry, use this. Remove the quilt from the washing machine. Dry as for Airing above.
If the quilt seems too fragile to wash, call a local museum or textile conservator society to ask for their opinion. There will usually be someone in such a community organization who is willing to offer advice on the best cleaning options. Do not give an antique quilt to a dry cleaner unless a select service is recommended by a quilt society or textile conservator.
If you can, store the quilt flat rather than folding it; this is the most ideal way of storing, although it is recognized that few people have such space to spare. If the quilt is small and thin, roll it around a tube; this will prevent creases and folds from forming.
Plastic is not an ideal covering; it can sweat (creating humidity) and some plastic bags may even leach colors from dyes and damage the quilt, especially with long-term storage. Anything that the quilt is stored in or on must be acid-free.
Direct sunlight Direct or close heat (even from an incandescent bulb; if possible, replace with fluorescent lighting inside the storage area) High temperature or high humidity Acidic surfaces (this includes some wooden surfaces).
It is not a good idea to put quilts in storage anywhere that moisture is likely to occur, such as the basement or the attic. Moisture will cause mildew growth in fabric. And if the quilt is overheated, it will begin to fall apart, while very cold temperatures will cause it to turn brittle. The temperature range for storing a quilt is ideal around 59 - 68ºF/15 - 20ºC, with humidity around 50 percent.
Do not allow insect repellents to come into direct contact with the stored quilt (or any other fabrics in the storage space).
If you have a guest bedroom, this is an ideal space to leave the quilt spread out for a week to “unfold” before returning to storage.
