Some sources recommend the “pocket and saddle” design for recurve bows, but “double pocket” stringers are also common. [1] X Research source This guide covers both types.
The lower limb is on the heavier side of the handle. The bow’s draw weight is usually marked on the lower limb.
If this doesn’t feel secure, wrap a rubber band tightly around the string loop. [1] X Research source
Some saddles can be secured against the bow, while others require you to hold it in place. The dimpled surface should press against the limb to reduce friction.
If using a saddle bow stringer, use one hand to keep the saddle in place. You may use one foot, but planting both feet gives you extra stability. This is particularly helpful for children and shorter adults.
If you have trouble with this, the stringer may be too long. Shorten it by tying knots near the bottom pouch.
Do not point the limbs at a nearby person, or a mishap could cause an injury.
When you’re ready to unstring the bow, attach the bow stringer the same way you did before. Step on the stringer and draw the bow up, then slide the upper string loop off the notch and down onto the limb. Slowly relax the bow.
Flemish twist strings stretch out more than endless loop strings.
Ask someone to stand on the side and watch as you shoot. The noise and vibration are easier to judge from the side.
Most recurve bows shoot best with a brace height between 7. 5 and 9. 75 inches (19–25 cm). [7] X Research source Replace the string with a smaller or larger string if you can’t get it near this range, or if you have to twist more than 20 or 30 times. [8] X Research source If you’re having trouble getting your arrows to fly straight, buy a T-square to measure nocking point height and brace height more accurately.
