You can also apply wax to the center area of the board’s rails, where you’ll be holding on when you turtle dive. This will help you grip the board more securely.
Checking the weather report for the day can help keep you from being caught in a storm and experiencing rough surf conditions.
You’ll know you’ve found the sweet spot when you feel how little effort it takes to make you and the board move.
To correct your positioning, scoot to the back of your board so the nose pops out of the water. Kick your legs in an eggbeater motion, grip the rails with 1 hand, and use the other hand to push yourself around. For example, if you want to turn the board to your left, grip the left rail with your left hand and paddle hard with your right hand.
Never grip the rails at the top, or the “nose” of the board. Positioning your grip there could make the board cartwheel backwards toward shore.
While underwater, let your legs dangle or keep 1 foot resting against the board as leverage. Don’t wrap your legs around the surfboard, since this can make the board cartwheel backwards and doesn’t let your body work as a sea anchor.
This move can also be useful for avoiding crashes! If you think someone is about to hit you as you paddle over a wave, quickly flip over into a turtle roll.
Be sure not to hog the waves, though. Experienced surfers generally don’t mind surfing with beginners, as long as they’re not being rude or stealing all of the good waves. [8] X Research source If this is your first time surfing, you may want to pick an area beyond the break where there are fewer surfers. This way, you’ll have less obstacles and people to worry about while you get the hang of your longboard.
While you’re paddling, keep your body toward the back of the board so the nose stays out of the water. If you’re a beginner, ask a friend to help push you into a wave or work on your paddling until you can catch a wave.
One of the best ways to make surfing low-pressure is to bring a friend and just have fun practicing together!
