You’ll usually be able to choose between fiberglass boards and soft surfboards, sometimes called “soft tops” or “foamies. " Soft surfboards are lightweight and much cheaper than epoxy or fiberglass boards. Soft boards are extremely buoyant and durable, making them a good choice for beginners. Your size and weight will contribute to determining which type of board you should learn on. [1] X Research source The more weight you have, the bigger the board volume you will need. You may not have a good experience learning to surf if you are trying to learn on a board that is too small for you. If you’re not sure what you want, talk to people at the surf shop. Be honest and tell them that you’re a first-timer and you want to know what you need to get started.
The more volume a longboard has, the easier it is to balance and paddle into waves. This makes for more enjoyable experiences for most learners. If you’ve tried a longboard and want something a little more maneuverable, you should try a funboard. Funboards are hybrid boards which are a bit shorter than longboards, typically 7–8. 5 feet (2. 1–2. 6 m). Funboards combine the smoothness and stability of a longboard with some of the agility of a shortboard.
Fish boards are even shorter than shortboards and much wider. The fish board’s flatness and small profile make it ideal for riding small surf that other boards sometimes struggle with. It’s a great board for intermediate and advanced surfers. Alternatively, The gun is another more advanced board. These boards are thin boards with very thin noses designed for experts surfing the very biggest waves. It can handle steep drops and high speeds with ease, but it’s hard to control if you’re a beginner.
Make sure not to get the wax sandy! This makes it very abrasive and can hurt your stomach.
Also, be sure to have a leash string, which connects your leash to the leash plug located at the tail of the board.
If you’re right-handed, your back foot will generally be your right foot. This is called “regular” stance. It’s called “goofy” stance when the leash is on your left foot. When in doubt, just do what feels most natural. Don’t just jump into the water when you’re first learning to surf, or you’ll get frustrated quickly. Take a little bit of time to practice on the sand, or in the privacy of your backyard, before you’re on the beach in front of others.
In one quick motion, push your body up with your arms and tuck your feet up and under you. Place one foot where your hands pushed up from and the other at least a shoulder’s width behind. As you are beginning, you may find it easier to get up to your knees first and then bring up one foot at a time until you are in a standing position. It’s slower than the jump up, but it works effectively for someone not ready for the jump up. Never grab the rails, or edges, of the board during your take off, unless you want to get a nice gash on your chin when your hands slip off your rail. If you find your hands or feet slipping when you try to get up, you may need to rub more wax on your board. You can practice jumping up without a surfboard present, so feel free to do it wherever you have a bit of space until you feel comfortable doing it.
Depending on which foot comes naturally in front, you’ll be either a “regular foot” or “goofy foot. " Regular foot means that your left foot is in front, while goofy foot means your right foot leads. [8] X Research source Beginners have a tendency to adopt a squatty stance when learning. Their feet are widely spread apart from bow to stern of their boards. This might feel comfortable, but it actually makes it harder to control. Balance is side-to-side, not front to back. You will notice that experienced surfers usually ride with their feet much closer together. A proper stance includes keeping your eyes looking in the direction you are going.
If your nose is too high up, you’re too far back on the board. If it digs water, you’re too far forward. It is essential to find the sweet spot, as that is where you will achieve maximum paddling efficiency. Paddle with long, deep strokes from as far forward to as far back as you can comfortably reach. [11] X Research source
If you have a friend who surfs, ask for help. Friends don’t usually charge and you can practice privacy of your own home rather than on the beach in front of others. Pay an instructor. This is the most reliable way to learn the basics of surfing in a clear, methodical way. For a fee, he or she will teach you all you need to know and give you pointers that will help you get out into the surf and having fun quickly.
Ask around for advice. Ask your local surf shop or surfers at advanced surf breaks where beginners should surf. They will be happy to point you to an appropriate spot. Check online. If you can’t find any advice that seems reliable, go online and search for recommendations there. You will often be able to find discussion boards for local surfers that have good information. Play it safe. If there is a lifeguard tower, plan to surf at a time when the lifeguard is on duty. Take some time to ask other surfers on the beach if they have any advice or warnings for you.
Respect the right of way. When there is more than one surfer paddling to catch a wave, the person who has paddled closest to the peak has the right of way for that wave. Don’t “drop in” on others. Paddling to catch or dropping into a wave while someone is already riding closer to the peak is considered rude and potentially dangerous. [14] X Research source Remember to scan the line of the wave for other surfers before you try to catch it. Very popular and busy beginner surfing locations don’t usually have these strict rules and multiple people will often ride the same wave (sometimes referred to as a “party wave”). If two people are waiting on the same wave, whichever person catches it first and is closer to the peak has the right of way.
Pick a reference point. Choose a landmark on the shore and glance at it periodically as you move into deeper water. This will help you gauge your distance from shore, and can help to reveal any hidden currents that might be moving you.
Paddle straight when you are paddling out. If you hit the waves at a glancing angle, you will lose the forward momentum you’ve built up. Stay perpendicular to the oncoming waves and “cut” through them instead. As you “cut” through a wave, it helps to do a push-up with your upper body as you go over or through the wave. [15] X Research source This prevents the wave from pushing you back to shore.
When you see a wave coming, get into position as near the peak as you can without appearing to be a “wave hog. " When you are satisfied that you are in a good position to catch the wave, paddle like there’s no tomorrow and give it all you’ve got!
Keep looking forward as you paddle. When you turn around, you lose power. Be quick. You want to catch the wave before it breaks, so you have time to get up on the board. It is often common for beginners to catch and ride the “white water” (which is a fine way to begin). [18] X Research source Be patient. If you miss a wave, just paddle back out and wait for the next likely candidate.
Start simple. At first, you should ride each wave straight in. This is a shorter and slower way to ride than angling on a wave, but it is easier to get the hang of.
Pick the direction you want to ride across the wave (left or right) early. If the wave is low enough, begin paddling in that direction before the wave hits. For larger waves, wait until you are getting pulled up onto the wave.
Try to land flat so that you won’t injure yourself in shallow water or on a reef. Once you have safely surfaced, pull your leash and climb back onto your board to prevent it from scything or flopping through the water, which can cause serious injury to you or others. Climb aboard, rest on your belly, and regain control. Most wipe out injuries happen as a result of the board hitting the surfer. Always remember to bail to the ocean side of your board. You don’t want to be between the beach and your board when a wave has control of the board. If you are riding for the very first time, it’s great to rent a foam surfboard rather than a fiberglass one, as they are softer and less likely to cause you injury while learning.
Avoid getting to your knees and stopping. If you’re going to commit, commit and stand up. Going to your knees is like saddling the horse but not riding it. Enjoy the ocean and have fun.
