Most snails enjoy having plants in the tank to graze on. They also eat algae, whether it is found naturally on the tank’s walls or provided in the form of store-bought algae wafers. [1] X Research source Some experts recommend feeding aquatic snails as much food as those snails can consume in under three minutes, twice daily. [2] X Research source This will require some trial and error, so make adjustments accordingly. As a general rule, if you provide supplemental food to your snail and it hasn’t touched that food in two days, you may be feeding it too much/often. It could also indicate that your snail does not care for that food source, so try different options and gauge your snail’s response. [3] X Research source Talk to a qualified aquarium expert at your local pet store or at a local college/university to ensure that your snail gets the care it needs.
Snails need a stable, neutral pH. You can buy pH testing kits at your local pet store, or order them through an online retailer. If you cannot use bottled water or pond water, you can simply let the tap water you’ll be pouring into the tank sit out in an open container for 24 hours. This should allow the residual chemicals to evaporate, leaving behind a safe source of water for your aquarium.
Test your tap water for nitrates. You can purchase a water testing kit from your local pet store or through an online retailer. Use purified water if your tap water is high in nitrates, as this water may not be safe for aquatic invertebrates. Common methods of purifying tap water are reverse osmosis, deionization, and ion exchange. Purchase an aquarium salt mix from your local pet store or online. Mix approximately 35 grams of salt mix per liter of water to closely replicate natural sea water. Consider purchasing a salinity measurement kit to ensure that your salt to water ratios are stable. Most aquarium owners who measure salinity use either a hydrometer (typically the least expensive option), a refractometer, or an electronic salinity meter.
Snails often float to the surface of an aquarium, leading some owners to think that the snail is dead. It’s simply got a gas bubble temporarily stuck under its shell, and the problem will resolve itself over time. Some snails withdraw into their shells, which owners frequently mistake as a sign of death. This is an incorrect assumption. A dead snail will hang limply outside the shell, while a living snail may retract into the shell. You can check on your snail by gently pushing against the flap where the shell closes. If the shell remains closed and the snail resists your efforts, it is still alive.
Do not exceed 20 snails per one gallon tank. [7] X Research source If you don’t have a full aquarium tank, you can use a clean quart- or gallon-sized container with transparent walls. It’s best if you can see your snails to assess their health, so opt for glass or clear plastic containers when choosing an environment. If using a smaller container, do not exceed three to six snails per quart, depending on their size. Make sure you have a secure lid for your tank (ideally a screen lid that will allow fresh air to circulate through the aquarium). Some snails are notorious for finding ways to escape from their tanks. [8] X Research source
Keep the aquarium away from direct sunlight to prevent the water from getting too warm during the day. Aquarium heaters are available to warm up the water if you live in a cold climate with poor insulation or inadequate heating, or if it gets too cold at night in your home. You can buy aquarium heaters at most pet stores and through online retailers.
Sand works best for many varieties of aquatic snail, though some may enjoy digging through gravel. About one or two inches of substrate should be sufficient for most snails. Talk to a qualified aquarium expert at your local pet store to find out about the ideal conditions for the type of snail you’re interested in.
Check the water on a regular basis to make sure that none of your snails (or any other aquatic organisms living in your tank) have died. Use a fish net to scoop out any dead organisms from your tank before they begin to decompose. Any time the water becomes murky/cloudy or starts to smell, you’ll need to change the water.
Gold Inca snails are recognizable by their bright, yellow shells. Gold Inca snails are considered good cleaners of freshwater tanks, as they tend to consume algae and detritus. Ivory snails are identified by their cream-colored shells. Ivory snails are also considered good tank cleaners and “scavengers” of freshwater aquariums. Mystery snails have a shell that tends to vary in appearance, but is usually somewhat dark (though some are ivory), typically with brown accents or stripes. Mystery snails have a tendency to scavenge, but they can also easily escape tanks and will most likely require a secure lid. Nerite snails come in different shapes, colors, and patterns, depending on the variety of snail. Nerite snails tend to scavenge for algae, but they also burrow into the substrate at the bottom in search of food. Pond snails are one of the most frequently-encountered unwanted snails. Pond snails tend to travel on aquatic plants and in aquarium water, often inadvertently making their way home from the pet store to a new home. Ramshorn snails have a shell that appears to twist and curl, much like the horn on the head of a ram (hence the name). Ramshorn snails are good scavengers, but like pond snails they often end up in home aquariums by accident. Trumpet snails tend to have elongated and cone-shaped shells. Trumpet snails are excellent scavengers, but like pond snails and ramshorn snails, they often appear without invitation in new aquariums due to their ability to sneak in on freshwater plants.
Bumble bee snails are carnivorous invertebrates. They typically eat meat-based detritus, including decomposing organisms in the tank, and have been known to eat other snails in the tank when food is scarce. [14] X Research source Cerith snails are easy to care for and can help improve oxygenation within the substrate of an aquarium. They scavenge for algae, detritus, leftover food, and fish waste. [15] X Research source Nassarius snails eat detritus, leftover food, decaying plant material, and fish wastes. They are excellent at keeping aquariums clean as they typically seek out a lot of food within the tank. [16] X Research source Turbo snails are generally easy to care for and tend to be very colorful. They come in a number of varieties, including Astraea turbo snails and chestnut turbo snails, and they tend to feed on algae and dried seaweed flakes. [17] X Research source
active movement within the water a healthy appetite for whatever type of food that snail prefers consistent/evenly-distributed coloring a clean shell
Ramshorn snails are considered one of the biggest pest varieties. These snails reproduce quickly and in very large numbers. Pond snails and trumpet snails are also considered pests by many aquarium owners, though some owners select these snails for aesthetic reasons. Talk to an aquarium expert at your local pet store if you’re not sure whether a particular variety of snail might become a pest in your tank.
