Different plants fare better during different time frames. For example, evergreen and pine trees do best in early fall, oak trees in early spring, maple trees in late fall, and fruit trees in early spring, right before growth season. If you succeed in removing the roots still covered with earth, the tree should survive even in the summer.
Good varieties to transplant include oak, birch, magnolia, dogwood, eucalyptus and tea tree. Limit yourself to trees with trunk diameters that are 2 inches (5. 1 cm) or less for the best results. Anything bigger can be difficult, and is best transplanted by landscape contractors.
Hardiness zones are the regions in a country that are grouped together based off of similar climate conditions. Take a look at the worldwide USDA plant hardiness zones here: http://planthardiness. ars. usda. gov/PHZMWeb/
Signs that your plant is getting too much sun include petals drying out, burnt leaf edges, drooping, and a washed out or faded color. On the other hand, signs of not getting enough sunlight include decreased growth, a wide distance between leaf stems, spindly stems, and fewer flower buds. Trees that are considered tolerant to shade are white ash, green ash, river birch, sugar maple, red maple, hackberry, Norway maple, American linden, ironwood, and Kentucky coffeetree.
Add dolomitic limestone to raise the pH of low-magnesium soils. For high-magnesium soils, add calcitic limestone to raise pH. [3] X Research source Sulfur additions can lead to gradual decreases in pH, although its effectiveness varies depending on moisture, temperature, and bacterial presence. Conversely, aluminum sulfate additions lead to instantaneous pH decreases that are difficult to control. [4] X Research source
Additions of organic matter such as peat moss, manure, or compost can improve soil drainage.
For example, tie a colored ribbon to north side of the tree, and plant with this ribbon facing north.
Consistently watering for several days before you transfer the plant will help the soil stay clumped to the plant’s root ball.
You can also measure the root ball after digging it out for better accuracy. However, estimating will give you a good idea of how to dig around the ball to minimize damage to the tree’s roots.
If the ground is firm enough and has moisture, you can cut around and down below the main root mass and remove it intact without disturbing the roots. Limit yourself to trees with a trunk diameter of 2 inches (5. 1 cm) or less. Anything bigger should be transplanted by an experienced contractor.
Purchase plastic or a tarp from local home hardware or garden stores.
Saplings with large taproots and large roots extending from the trunk are likely unsuitable for transplanting.
Avoid shaking the root ball during transportation. This will loosen the loosen the soil around the roots and allow air to reach them, causing them to dry out.
If the soil is extremely hard or compacted, dig your hole much larger to loosen the soil around the perimeter and make it easier for the roots to spread when they begin to grow outward.
Don’t water so much that you wash the soil from the roots.
Water the tree slowly and thoroughly after the hole is filled. Steady watering ensures that the tree does not dry out.
These dams are especially useful for dry soil.
Dig about 4 to 8 inches (10 to 20 cm) into the soil and touch it with your hands. If it’s dry, or even just a bit damp, it needs more water. Avoid short, frequent watering, as it doesn’t promote deep root growth necessary for newly transplanted trees. Rewater the tree after the initial watering has soaked in, and keep watering the sapling through its first growing season.
Mulching provides a favorable environment for root growth by improving water flow, holding in moisture, and preventing weed growth.
If you’re fertilizing in the fall, do so after leaves have fallen. For spring fertilization, do so before tree growth begins. Try to avoid fertilizing when there is the risk of a frost, though, as this can kill the sapling’s new growth. Adding fertilizer too early will stimulate the tree to put more growth out than its stressed roots can support.
You might want to wrap the string or wire with a split, cut-off piece of garden hose where it contacts the tree to keep it from chaffing the bark at these locations. High winds can blow the sapling down before the soil is compacted and the roots begin growing out to establish a new foothold.
