After flowering, the plant will focus on drawing in nourishment to sustain it over the winter. [1] X Research source For this reason, you must avoid cutting green foliage as this deprives the plant of the ability to nourish itself and store energy from sunlight to see it through the winter.

You can also move bulbs in the springtime but remember never to cut or damage any green shoots. If you move them in the spring take especial care not to damage the growing roots at this time.

This can be pretty hard to do. Gentle handling is always necessary when moving bulbs from place to place.

Three times the height of the bulb is the usual depth for planting. Also, bulbs often wriggle deeper into the ground over time, which may add to the depth they were initially planted at. For example, larger bulbs such as tulips or daffodils will usually be planted to a depth of about 8 inches (20. 3 cm). It’s best to assume they are at 12 inches (30. 5 cm) depth to be on the safe side.

If you observe that your bulb has formed a clump of smaller bulbs, gently separate these with your fingers. [3] X Research source The new bulbs can be planted separately and is a good way of increasing your bulb stock. This will also help avoid damaging neighboring bulbs by pulling apart their roots.

Try squeezing a handful of damp earth. If it forms a sticky mass when squeezed, rather than crumbling, then your garden soil may be clay-heavy. If this is the case, it’s a good idea to incorporate lots of organic matter or grit into the soil to improve drainage. Do this well ahead of replanting the transplanted bulbs. Regardless of soil type, bulbs will appreciate plenty of organic matter such as well-rotted manure being incorporated at planting time.

After lifting your bulbs, remove as much soil as is possible. [5] X Research source Trim any straggly roots and pick off any flaking layers from the bulb itself. Discard any diseased or rotting bulbs. Lay the bulbs on a tray or other flat surface and allow to dry out for a day or two. Then, put the bulbs into a container of sawdust or paper bags with some peat moss. Some gardeners use net bags of the kind used to store oranges. The trick is to allow dry air to circulate to prevent the bulbs from getting damp and rotting. For the reason, it’s best not to overcrowd bulbs and prevent them from touching each other as this can lead to rot spreading.

Spring flowering bulbs are best planted in the autumn; summer flowering ones in spring. You will hear of some gardeners dusting bulbs with fungicide ahead of storing them. This is always a good idea but isn’t essential. [6] X Research source

This means a 2 inch (5. 1 cm) bulb should be planted 6 inches (15. 2 cm) deep and at least 4 inches (10. 2 cm) from its neighbor. It’s a good idea to add a handful of compost to the bottom of the hole for the bulb to sit on. Put the bulb in the hole with the pointed end facing upwards and fill the hole in. [9] X Research source Clark Hill. Plant Specialist & VP of Operations, Platt Hill Nursery. Water well and avoid treading down the earth with your foot as this can cause damage. Bulbs will do well planted under grass but remember not to mow the area over the bulbs until the foliage has withered away, usually in the late summer.

Container bulbs need to be planted at a depth of three times their size but they will tolerate more crowding than ground-planted bulbs – an inch of separation is fine. [10] X Research source Avoid allowing the bulbs to touch. Feed container-planted bulbs regularly during the growing season (spring-summer).

Don’t let the container dry out completely, even when the bulbs are dormant over winter.