The sole exception here is when dealing with live traps. Since live traps are almost always significantly more expensive than ordinary disposable rat traps, it can be impractical to buy more than one. Thus, live traps are best-suited for small rat problems — instances when there’s only about one or two rats loose in your house. Any larger, and you run the risk of being unable to catch all of the rats before they breed. See below for more information on live traps.
Pros: When used correctly, kills rats quickly and effectively. Traps are reusable and are basically effective forever until they’re sprung, so they can be left in “problem areas” semi-permanently. [2] X Trustworthy Source University of California Integrated Pest Management Program Research-based pest management program run by the University of California’s Cooperative Extension Go to source Cons: Can occasionally cause bleeding, gore, etc. Possible to hurt yourself if the trap is sprung accidentally.
Pros: Cheap, disposable. Can also catch bugs, spiders, etc. inadvertently. Cons: Won’t always kill rats quickly. Occasionally won’t kill rats at all, requiring you to put the rat out of its misery. Considered very inhumane and cruel by many animal rights groups, including PETA. [4] X Research source Aren’t effective forever — glue will eventually start to dry.
Pros: Low maintenance — not necessary to check for dead rats, as the rats will leave the trap and die elsewhere. Can be left out semi-permanently if poison is consistently refilled. These traits make poison traps good choices for outdoor rat control. Cons: Death can often take hours or days. Not guaranteed that rats will eat the correct dosage. Possible to accidentally poison pets, small children, or non-pest animals if used improperly. In indoor rat infestations, rats may die in inaccessible parts of the residence and begin to rot.
If you use a live trap, make sure you choose a trap that the rat can’t fit through. Most rats can even fit through spaces as narrow as 0. 75 in (1. 9 cm). Be sure to check your live trap at least every 24 hours. Otherwise, the rat could starve to death, which is inhumane and, in most places, illegal.
For especially small pets, like miniature dogs, ferrets, hamsters, and so on, larger snap traps can potentially cause serious injury. Bigger animals and children may still be at risk for broken bones, gashes, and so on if they step on one of the traps. Glue traps can lead to intense pain and discomfort if a pet or child accidentally steps on one. In rare cases, the glue trap can be life-threatening if it attaches to the area around the mouth and nose. To remove a glue trap, apply baby oil to the spot where it is stuck and pry it off with a spoon. [5] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source Poison can cause symptoms ranging from mild to severe depending on how much is ingested. If you have reason to believe your pet or child has eaten rat poison, contact your local poison control center immediately — the help you get may be life-saving. Also, keep the packaging the poison came in, even if you used it all. It will have important information for a medical provider, veterinarian, or poison control person.
Rats visible in the open — most rats like to hide as much as possible, so if you see them regularly, it’s likely that there are many. Frequent appearance of small, pellet-like droppings. Greasy, dirty “trails” along walls. Bite/nibble marks in stored food. Small gnawed openings in corners of walls and cupboards. Infestation signs that don’t seem to improve as rats are caught.
Peanut butter Bacon or meat Most fruits and vegetables Cereals Commercial rat baits (available at hardware stores and online pest control retailers)
Take care when handling or cleaning rat droppings — certain illnesses, like Hantavirus, can be caused by accidentally ingesting or inhaling small particles from rat feces. [8] X Research source Wear gloves and a face mask when disposing of rat droppings and be sure to wash your hands when you’ve finished. You may also see grease marks where the oils on the rats’ fur has rubbed off on a surface. These will typically be found near entry holes or along pathways. [9] X Expert Source Chris ParkerFounder, Parker Eco Pest Control Expert Interview. 15 January 2021. Also, look for chew marks where the rats may have tried to enlarge entrances into their home. [10] X Expert Source Chris ParkerFounder, Parker Eco Pest Control Expert Interview. 15 January 2021.
If using snap traps, place the traps perpendicular to the wall so that the baited end is touching it. This forces the animals to touch the bait platform if they want to continue along the same path as they’ve been using before.
If you have time, try spending a few minutes looking for “rat runs” — small, narrow paths in grass that rats use to come and go. Placing traps along rat runs is a great way to start catching rats. If you’re putting snap traps outside, consider putting them inside a trap box. That way, you won’t accidentally trap an animal like a cat.
It’s just as important to check live traps as it is to check lethal traps. Leaving a rat in a live trap for a long period of time can be potentially deadly, especially in very hot or cold climates where the rat is vulnerable to exposure.
While many animal rights groups (including PETA) recommend against the use of lethal traps in the first place, among more mainstream pest-control resources, two methods of euthanasia are usually deemed acceptable for rodents: cervical dislocation and asphyxiation. Cervical dislocation involves breaking the rat’s spinal cord by pressing on the base of its neck with quick, forceful pressure, while asphyxiation involves putting the rat in a small container and flooding it with an inert gas like carbon dioxide. The easiest way to euthanize a rat is to remove its head with a shovel. See our article on humanely killing a rodent for more information on this topic.
In the case of glue traps, you’ll need to throw the entire trap out with the dead rat. Don’t re-use glue traps — they won’t work as well the second time and it can be very difficult to cleanly un-stick the rat from the trap in the first place.
Note, however, that if you release a rat into the wild alive, there’s not necessarily any reason why it won’t find its way back into your house. In this case, it’s important to “rodent-proof” your house to ensure that the root cause for the rat infestation is eliminated. This includes removing any food sources, sealing holes in the outside of your house with caulk or steel wool, tidying up any messes to remove potential nesting places, and more. See our article on rodent-proofing your home for more information.
